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Water Supply Line Installation

Get New Copper 3/4" or 1" water supply pipe for your home!

More water - use your shower, and dishwasher, and laundry on the same time!

Clean copper pipe instead of galvanized rusted pipe!

Book an appointment with our master plumber to install new copper water supply lines 3/4" or 1". Anta Plumbing call center agents are standing by to assist you (416) 231-3331

Water Supply Service

Water service upgrade

AnTa Plumbing and Drain Toronto Company with extensive experience in upgrading water supply lines. We can help improve the water pressure in your plumbing system, relocate water meters, change lead pipe to copper pipe, and fix frozen pipes to prevent burst pipes.

In the water supply system, pipe of increasingly smaller diameter is called for as the supply pipes branch out from the water main that enters the house. Water in the main is under tremendous water pressure - sometimes far more pressure than can be safely handled by the individual sinks faucets, toilets and appliances in the home. The successive drop in pressure as the water moves from main, to primary supply lines, to secondary supply lines ensures that each appliance receives an appropriate amount of pressure.

 



Water supply pipe. Look inside!

Water supply pipe sediments

This picture is real! Water supply pipes become rusted and full of sediments over time. When you use tub water to cook or drink, make sure that you install a water filter or call Anta Plumbing to change your water supply line to new copper.

First, it gives you more water. Have you noticed how the second floor bathroom doesn't have enough water to take a shower when someone else is washing dishes?

Secondly, you have less rust/sediments in every cup. We have hundreds of photos from real projects just to show you what our drinking water looks like and what we can do about it.



Main shutoff valve

Water Supply System.

Your home plumbing consists of two separate systems, the water service system and drain-waste-vent system. The water service system transport potable water (water that is fit for human consumption and use) from a water treatment plant through a water main and into the home. The piping is split into two layouts. One carries water directly to the water softener, if you have one, then to the water heater, and through hot water pipes to the various fixtures where hot water is needed. Like the hot water system, the cold water branch routes the water to various fixtures, including the sink, toilets, bathtubs and laundry equipment, and also to exterior faucets called hose bibs or sill cocks.

The second part of the plumbing system is a drain-waste-vent system


Toilet shutoff valve

At the water service entry you will find a water meter and a main shutoff valve. The water meter, of course, measures water usage for billing by the utility company. The gate valve allows you to turn off the water flow to the entire house, in case of emergency or to make needed repairs. There is another shutoff valve beneath the toilet tank or water closet. This valve permits you to shut off the water service the toilet without having to shut off the water to entire house. In oldest houses this may be the only fixture shut off valve and you may have to shut off the entire system at the main shut off valve to work on faucets in other fixtures. In modern houses, there are often service shut off valves at sinks and laundry equipment, so you can shut down the water supply fixture by fixture instead of having to shut down the entire house.

Because the water supply pipes are pressurized, they can be smaller than drain pipes, which operate by gravity. The pressurized supply pipes and fixtures are naturally more subject to leaks, due to the pressure. If pressure on the street supply pipe is over 80 pounds per sq. inch (psi) there is a pressure reducing valve at the water entry. The water pressure in your house is 80 psi or less.


Because the water supply pipes are pressurized, they can be smaller than drain pipes, which operate by gravity. The pressurized supply pipes and fixtures are naturally more subject to leaks, due to the pressure. If pressure on the street supply pipe is over 80 pounds per sq. inch (psi) there is a pressure reducing valve at the water entry. The water pressure in your house is 80 psi or less.

Lead Pipe vs. Copper Pipe

Healthy Pipes. Higher Water Pressure.

In past years, lead has been used in a variety of applications, such as water service supply pipes, drainage pipes, flashings for stacks, shower stall safes and water closet connections. Up until the late 1920s, lead pipes were still used, although not extensively, in residential plumbing system. The water from your water treatment plant might be lead-free, but it can pick up some of this metal along the way. You can take some precautions:

- Allow the water to run for a minute or so before consuming it (you're drawing off water that has been sitting in the pipes and has the highest lead content)

- Never use hot tap water for cooking or preparing baby formulas (hot water leaches more lead from the pipes.)

- Install a water filter that removes lead.

After reading this, you may agree that your lead pipe plumbing system has to be changed to copper pipe.

Toronto has more than 500,000 water services connections and almost 65,000 of these are made of lead.
Approximately 3,500 are replaced each year.

Water pressure

Rusted, sedimented water pipe

RUSTED WATER PIPE

There two issues here: one is water pressure at the main, and the second is volume of water, which is a determined by pipe size. A main water supply pipe or service line could be as small as a half inch in diameter - and possibly corroded, at that. Water pressure is pretty much a constant thing you have to work around, but pipe sizing can be changed. Your main water supply pipe should be your first consideration before adding any new fixtures onto an old system.

As pipes close down due to corrosion, they lose the capacity to carry a sufficient volume to deliver a desired amount of water at the taps. Some older homes have pipes that are too small for modern requirements.

Your main shut off valve, located on the property line, which is often near the street or sidewalk, is connected to the supply pipe and then to the water meter inside of the house (close to the front wall most of it). You should be able to trace the probable path of the pipe to your house.

Replacing the pipe usually means digging a trench from the property line (main shut off valve) to your house. The pipe might be running under a driveway or sidewalk, and we must find either an alternative route or an alternative to digging in order to replace it. Anta Plumbing has a new trenchless solution that only requires a small hole on the property line, which enables us to  install a full run of new copper water supply line with connections to your water meter or the hot water tank.


Installing pipes with a larger diameter brings more water to your home.

Low water pressure

Increase water pressure

Water pressure device

If your water pressure is low, check to see if aerator screens or water-saving devices are clogged. Remove the heads from the affected faucets, and test the water flow. If that solves the problem, you can just replace the clogged pieces.

Sediment can build up in your water heater, reducing the flow of water over time, especially in areas with hard water. Drain your water heater every few months to remove sediment buildup.

Another culprit in low water pressure is that supply lines are too small; if so, you should increase their size. If your line is 1/2", you can upgrade to 3/4" or even 1".  Anta Plumbing can quickly and conveniently install new, bigger pipes using state-of-the-art trenchless technology that requires no digging and leaves no mess.

 

Our water supply line services

- New water supply line
- Water leak repair
- Water pressure control
- Water meter relocation
- Maintenance plumbing system
- Lead pipes exchange
- New rough-in installation

Trenchless technology for water pipe installation

Trenchless rehabilitation refers to some of Anta Plumbing’s modern construction methods, including thermoformed pipe, pipe bursting, and mechanical spot repair for the rehabilitation, or replacement of existing buried pipes and structures with minimal (if any) excavation.

Sliplining and thermoformed pipe lining involve pulling a new liner through an existing pipe, then applying heat and/or pressure to force the liner to expand to fill the pipe. Pipe bursting fractures a pipe from the inside and forces the fragments outwards while a new pipe is drawn in to replace the old, weathered or broken pipe.

The other methods are primarily for fixing spot leaks. Trenchless rehabilitation methods are generally more cost-effective than traditional excavation and replacement methods.

Trenchless technology by Anta Plumbing INC.

Anta Plumbing Licensed Plumbers use piercing tools for water line installation. Piercing tools are ideal for installing utilities under existing landscapes and / or structures (your driveway, your sidewalk, garden, etc.) with minimal disruption.

We use pneumatic-powered tools to create a compact hole that allows us to install underground water lines and keep your landscaping, floors and walls free from damage.

Typically, a customer would build an addition to their home, and all they would currently have is a 1/2-inch waterline. Because of the addition, they would need to get larger diameter services to the entire residential plumbing system. To get more water volume into the house, our customer would need Anta Plumbing to upgrade the plumbing system to a 3/4-inch line, or to a 1-inch line.

To reroute the water line, our master plumber would use the pneumatic tool to punch in a new bore for the larger new line. Instead of digging a 40-foot trench, Anta Plumbing’s drain service technicians will only dig two small holes, which create a huge cost savings for customer.


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