When you are away, when you have a vacation, when your parents need plumbing assistance, we have a unique program for our clients
We service 24/7, you can call us and request the plumbing at the earliest time
We will send you quotes, pictures, and videos by e-mail or by phone as a report or video on our
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We can deliver the toilet and install and remove the old one for your tenant and parents.
Payments can be made online.
- Plumbing services for Property Management
- Plumbing services for landlords
- Plumbing services for elderly parents and relatives in charge
- Plumbing services for commercial branches
- Drain cleaning for tenants
- Drain repair for tenants
- Drain installation for contractors
When deciding which toilet best suits your lifestyle, you may want to ask your plumber a series of questions. Here are just a few:
Which make, model, size and color is your best option?
Smaller, rounded toilets are more compact and easier to fit into smaller spaces; while elongated toilets require more floor space. Both types have pros and cons that make them suitable for both residential and commercial properties.
Most toilets are designed as two separate pieces: a tank and a bowl, which are bolted together during installation. However, there are also one-piece models available, offering a seamless integration of the tank and bowl. Toilet designs vary widely, and typically, your choice will be influenced by your budget.
When selecting the right toilet, it’s crucial to remember that, while toilets may look similar, they can vary in length, width, and height. A critical aspect to consider is ensuring that the new toilet aligns correctly with the existing drain on the floor under the base of the toilet. A misalignment with the drain can lead to expensive adjustments. Standard measurements from the wall to the drain center usually range between 10″ and 12″, but 14″ models are often available through special orders.
Additionally, the height of the toilet is an important factor, particularly if you have shelves or any structure above the tank. The best way to measure this is from the floor to the bottom of the shelf. This measurement will help you determine if you need a toilet with a lower height to fit comfortably in the available space.
Toilet installation by licensed Plumber in Toronto
There are many reasons to replace your toilet: Maybe it isn’t running properly; maybe you want to be environmentally friendly and conserve water, or maybe you just want to redecorate. Whatever the reason, Anta Plumbing has a toilet special that can fit into almost every budget, so call Anta Plumbing now @ 416-231-3331 to book your appointment today for your new toilet installation by our licensed plumber, if your toilet:
- is broken
- does not stop running
- isn’t working properly
- no longer matches your decor
- is older and uses a tremendous amount of water per flush.
Install or Reinstall Toilet: Licensed Plumber Tips
Every family can keep its water bills down – while enjoying the many conveniences of modern equipment – by a regular program of repairs and minor alterations.
Replacing an older toilet with one of the new water-efficient models can reduce water consumption by gallons a day – and you can keep the saving at a maximum using a simple adjustment that controls the length of the flush cycle.
Installing a new toilet from scratch takes a good deal of plumbing expertise, but replacing a damaged or old-fashioned one with an up-to-date model is a job any householder can complete in an afternoon as no major plumbing work is involved.
Toilet Installation Mechanics
The replacement bowl fits over the existing drain pipe and floor flange. The tank can be connected to the existing water supply pipe, even if you are replacing an ancient wall-mounted tank with a modern toilet that has the tank mounted on the rear of the bowl. Water-saving models, built with lower tanks and narrower bowl traps to release about a third less water at each flush, are installed in exactly the same way as the conventional type.
When purchasing a new toilet, a key consideration is the “rough-in distance” – the measurement from the wall behind the toilet to the center of the drainpipe. It’s essential to measure this accurately, as your plumbing supplier will need this information to ensure the new toilet fits perfectly in the same space as the old one. The new toilet’s tank will typically come with its internal mechanisms pre-installed, along with the necessary washers, gaskets, and hardware for attaching the tank to the bowl. However, you may need to purchase separate hold-down bolts for securing the tank to the floor – be sure to confirm this with your supplier.
Additionally, you should buy a new wax gasket to seal the bowl to the drainpipe, and a small can of bowl-setting compound to create a watertight seal between the bowl and floor.
If you need to connect the water supply pipe to the new tank, a flexible connecting pipe can be used for an easy setup. Make sure to specify that you need a toilet tank supply pipe, as its fittings differ from those used for sinks or lavatories.
If your old toilet didn’t have a shutoff valve, it’s advisable to purchase and install one now.
In terms of tools, you’ll generally need a spud wrench (or a large pipe or monkey wrench as an alternative), a screwdriver, a carpenter’s level, a tape measure, and a putty knife to complete the installation.
1. Finding the rough-in distance.
With the old bowl still in place, locate the hold-down bolts that secure the bowl to the floor. Measure from the center of the bolts to the wall behind the bowl. This is the rough-in distance – it determines the exact location of the concealed drai8npipe to the wall. The rough-in distance of the new bowl may be somewhat shorter than that of the old one, but it must never be longer or there will not be enough space for the new fixture.
2. Removing the tank.
Shut off water supply, flush the toilet and sponge out the remaining water in the tank and bowl. Disconnect the supply pipe by loosening the slip nut at the tank. If the tank is wall-mounted, use a pipe or spud wrench to loosen the slip nuts on the spud pipe. Remove the spud pipe. While a helper supports the tank, unscrew the nuts from the hanger bolts and remove the tank from the wall. If the tank is mounted on the bowl, remove the nuts from the bolts in the upper rim of the bowl. Then lift the tank off the bowl.
3. Removing the bowl.
Unscrew or pry off the porcelain caps of the floor bolts, and remove the hold-down nuts and washers. Badly corroded nuts may have to be soaked with penetrating oil. To break the seal between the bowl and the floor, grasp the bowl and twist or rock it back and forth. Carefully lift the bowl straight up off the bolts and set it aside. Stuff a rag into the drainpipe opening to keep sewer gas inside the pipe and to prevent debris from falling in. Using a putty knife, scrape away the remnants of the old wax gasket or putty from the floor flange.
4. Installing the wax gasket.
With the new bowl upside down, place a wax gasket around the water outlet (called the horn). If the floor flange is recessed below floor level, you will need a wax gasket with a plastic sleeve. Install the gasket with the sleeve facing away from the horn.
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5. Installing the new bowl.
Remove the rag from the drainpipe opening. Turn the bowl upright, position it over the floor flange and press down with a twisting motion to tighten the seal between bowl and drainpipe. Use a level to be sure the bowl is not tilted. If necessary, insert shims, improvised from thin sheet metal, under the base of the bowl to make it level and to keep it from rocking. Screw the washers and hold-down nuts onto the floor bolts, which should emerge through the base of the bowl. Do not tighten the nuts or attach the bolt caps yet.
6. Installing a bowl-mounted tank.
Fit the bevelled rubber spud washer around the flush valve opening at the bottom of the tank. Then place the rubber tank cushion over the rear part of the bowl so that the two holes in the cushion align with the bolt openings on each side of the water-inlet hole. The two bolts (cushioned with rubber washers) that you insert through the underside of the tank will fit through these openings when you position the tank over the bowl. Fasten the bolts with nuts and washers where they emerge underneath the bowl rim. Adjust the alignment of the toilet so that the tank is parallel to the wall (they may be a few inches apart). Check the bowl to make sure it is still level and does not rock. Then tighten the hold-down nuts and bolt caps at the base of the bowl. Seal the base to the floor with toilet-bowl setting compound or plaster of paris, trimming away the excess with a putty knife. Attach the seat and cover.
7. Connecting the water supply.
If your new tank is lower or farther from the wall than the old tank, you must readjust the fittings for the supply pipe or install new fittings. To bring the old fittings to the desired level, screw an elbow onto the wall stub-out (if there is an elbow in place, turning it 90 degrees may suffice), then use a threaded nipple to connect a second elbow. Add a nipple and a shutoff valve. Install the flexible supply pipe, connecting the flared end to the ball-cock shuft. Tighten the connections and turn on the water.
New toilets use no more than 1.6 gallons of water per flush; older toilets use from 3 to 5 gallons. Newer gravity-flush models increase pressure by maximizing water flow through more efficient hole designs. But even new models can be clogged by toilet paper or solid objects dropped accidentally in.
A minor clog may be removable with the use of a plunger, while more intense toilet drain clogs may be removable with the use of a toilet snake. Toilet plunger will work only if cause of blockage is waste or paper not solid objects. Second option is toilet auger.
Clogged toilet repair. Toilet Auger
Use a toilet auger if plunging doesn’t clear the clog. Pull the auger’s handle up, insert the auger, then crank while pushing down. The auger may push an obstruction through, or it may grab the obstruction so you can then pull it out.
Clogged toilet repair. Toilet Drain Cleaning
Check other plumbing fixtures. If something else is clogged, for ex., kitchen sink and shower shows some sighs of backup, you better call professional Plumber. Major blockage in a main sewer line is occurred.
The toilet flange must be level with the floor and in good working order for the best seal possible. It is designed to fit the toilet securely to the bathroom floor. If the flange is off-level one way or the other, up or down, it will not seal your toilet properly, causing discomfort and leaks. If the flange is higher or lower than a quarter inch, you can use toilet flange extenders to level it.
Book an appointment with one of our licensed plumber to make the adjustments and do the required plumbing.
A Flange is part of toilet drain system. You will need to understand basic plumbing structure and mechanics to re-install a flange, but don’t fret if you don’t know it. Our Toronto plumbers are standing by to help you, so don’t hesitate to call us here in Toronto @416-231-3331 or Oakville, Burlington office @905-332-1230 or e-mail us at [email protected] and book your appointment with us today.
Toronto Plumber Toilet Repair Recommendations Sizes
Most toilets are roughly the same size, but it’s still a good idea to measure your existing toilet and tank. Shapes differ, so they may be rounded or elongated. Elongated toilets are great for commercial use.
Style.
Most toilets have two pieces (tank plus bowl), however one-piece models are also available. Designs vary.
Efficiency
Water-efficient toilets use less water per flush. That means that you save both the environment and your pocket.
Toilet Drain Repairs
Some procedures of toilet drain repair are simple, while there are yet major problems that may need the attention of professionals. Our plumbers are qualified licensed plumbers who have the experience and the expertise to recognize the problem and usually fix it on the spot.
Here are a few Toronto Plumbers tips for some of the simpler procedures of toilet drain repair.
- Turn off the water source when doing toilet drain repair
- Simply reach down to the left side of the toilet and turn the shutoff valve to the right to stop the flow of water
- Slow-moving toilet water is a sign of a toilet that flushes too often into clogged drainpipes and then overflowing. A running toilet will continually run after flushing, consuming vast amounts of water in very little time.
- When your toilet is running remove the lid from the tank and set it aside safely then check, the ball cock or the valve that attaches to the float; if you find water, running from the valve it needs replacement and if you need help our plumber is the one to call 416-231-3331
- If your toilet is running constantly, remove the lid from the tank and set it aside safely. Check, the ball cock or the valve that attaches to the float; if you find water, running from the valve it needs replacement. If you are not confident that you can fix it yourself, be sure to contact a professional plumber.
- If there is no leak in the valve, you should check the rubber flap at the bottom of the tank. Simply press down gently and see if the water flow stops; if it does, the flap will need replacing and our licensed plumber is equipped to do the job.
- Check the chain that attaches the flapper to the handle, as sometimes the problem is fixable by adjusting or replacing the chain.
- Toilet leaking? Find the area that needs repair by adding just a small drop of food coloring to the water in the tank.
Depending on the toilet drain problem, you can do this yourself, or you can hire our plumber to help you with toilet drain repairs.