Enjoy a more plentiful supply of water—use your shower, dishwasher and laundry at the same time!
Enjoy cleaner water with clean copper pipe instead of galvanized rusted pipe!
Book an appointment with our master plumber to install new copper water supply lines of 3/4-inch or 1-inch diameter. Call (416) 231-3331 today—Anta Plumbing call center agents are standing by to assist you.
In the water supply system, pipes have increasingly smaller diameters as the supply pipes branch out from the water main that enters the house. Water in the main is under tremendous water pressure—sometimes far more pressure than can be safely handled by the individual sinks, faucets, toilets and appliances in the home. The successive drop in pressure as the water moves from the main to primary supply lines to secondary supply lines ensures that each appliance receives an appropriate amount of pressure.
However, a variety of conditions can lead to pipe damage. You can read more about these below.
In the water supply system, pipe of increasingly smaller diameter is called for as the supply pipes branch out from the water main that enters the house. Water in the main is under tremendous water pressure – sometimes far more pressure than can be safely handled by the individual sinks faucets, toilets and appliances in the home. The successive drop in pressure as the water moves from main, to primary supply lines, to secondary supply lines ensures that each appliance receives an appropriate amount of pressure.
Your home plumbing consists of two separate systems: the water service system and drain-waste-vent system. The water service system transports potable water (water that is fit for human consumption and use) from a water treatment plant through a water main and into the home. The piping is split into two layouts. One carries water directly to the water softener, if you have one, then to the water heater, and through hot water pipes to the various fixtures where hot water is needed. Like the hot water system, the cold water branch routes the water to various fixtures: sinks, toilets, bathtubs, laundry equipment and exterior faucets called hose bibs or sill cocks.
The second part of the plumbing system is a drain-waste-vent system.
At the water service entry, you will find a water meter and a main shutoff valve. The water meter, of course, measures water usage for billing by the utility company. The gate valve allows you to turn off the water flow to the entire house in case of emergency or to make needed repairs. There is another shutoff valve beneath the toilet tank or water closet. This valve lets you shut off the water to the toilet without having to shut off the water to the entire house.
In older houses, this may be the only fixture shutoff valve and you may have to shut off the entire system at the main valve to work on faucets in other fixtures. Modern houses often have shutoff valves at sinks and laundry equipment, so you can shut down the water supply fixture by fixture instead of having to shut down the entire house.
Because the water supply pipes are pressurized, they can be smaller than drainpipes, which operate by gravity. The pressurized supply pipes and fixtures are naturally more subject to leaks due to the pressure. If pressure on the street supply pipe is over 80 pounds per square inch (psi), there is a pressure-reducing valve at the water entry. The water pressure in a house is 80 psi or less.
Because the water supply pipes are pressurized, they can be smaller than drain pipes, which operate by gravity. The pressurized supply pipes and fixtures are naturally more subject to leaks, due to the pressure. If pressure on the street supply pipe is over 80 pounds per sq. inch (psi) there is a pressure reducing valve at the water entry. The water pressure in your house is 80 psi or less.
Because the water supply pipes are pressurized, they can be smaller than drain pipes, which operate by gravity. The pressurized supply pipes and fixtures are naturally more subject to leaks, due to the pressure. If pressure on the street supply pipe is over 80 pounds per sq. inch (psi) there is a pressure reducing valve at the water entry. The water pressure in your house is 80 psi or less.
The difference between lead and copper pipes is apparent in their colours. A lead pipe is a dull gray colour and scratching them leaves a shiny silver mark. However, a copper pipe is a bronze or dark orange colour. Copper pipes are superior because they are less likely to leak and because lead ones can leach dangerous traces of lead into your water.
In past years, lead was used in a variety of applications, such as water service supply pipes, drainage pipes, flashings for stacks, shower stall safes and water closet connections. Up until the late 1920s, lead pipes were still used, although not extensively, in residential plumbing systems. The water from your water treatment plant might be lead-free, but it can pick up some of this metal along the way. You can take some precautions:
After reading this, you may agree that it’s time to replace your lead pipe plumbing system with copper pipe.
Toronto has more than 500,000 water service connections, and almost 65,000 of these are made of lead. Approximately 3,500 are replaced each year.
There two issues here: one is the water pressure at the main, and the second is the volume of water, which is a determined by pipe size. A main water supply pipe or service line can be as small as 1/2 inch in diameter and may be corroded, at that. Water pressure is pretty much a constant thing you have to work around, but pipe sizing can be changed. Consider your main water supply pipe before adding any new fixtures to an old system.
As pipes become clogged due to corrosion, they can no longer carry a sufficient volume to deliver the desired amount of water at the taps. Some older homes have pipes that are too small for modern requirements.
Your main shutoff valve, often located on the property line near the street or sidewalk, is connected to the supply pipe and then to the water meter inside the house (close to the front wall). You should be able to trace the probable path of the pipe to your house.
Replacing the pipe usually means digging a trench from the property line (main shutoff valve) to your house. The pipe might be running under a driveway or sidewalk, and we must find either an alternative route or an alternative to digging to replace it. Anta Plumbing has a new trenchless solution that requires only a small hole on the property line. This innovative method enables us to install a full run of new copper water supply line with connections to your water meter or the hot water tank.
Installing pipes with a larger diameter brings more water into your home.
If your water pressure is low, check to see if aerator screens or water-saving devices are clogged. Remove the heads from the affected faucets and test the water flow. If that solves the problem, you can just replace the clogged parts.
Sediment can also build up in your water heater, reducing the flow of water over time, especially in areas with hard water. Drain your water heater every few months to remove sediment buildup.
Another culprit in low water pressure is supply lines that are too small. In this case, you should increase their size. If your line is 1/2 inch, you can upgrade to 3/4 inch or even 1 inch. Anta Plumbing can quickly and conveniently install new, bigger pipes using state-of-the-art trenchless technology that requires no digging and leaves no mess.
Trenchless rehabilitation refers to some of Anta Plumbing’s modern construction methods, including thermoformed pipe, pipe bursting and mechanical spot repair, or replacement of existing buried pipes and structures with minimal (if any) excavation.
Sliplining and thermoformed pipe lining involve pulling a new liner through an existing pipe, then applying heat and/or pressure to force the liner to expand to fill the pipe. Pipe bursting fractures a pipe from the inside and forces the fragments outward while a new pipe is drawn in to replace the old, weathered or broken pipe.
The other methods are primarily for fixing spot leaks. Trenchless rehabilitation methods are generally more cost-effective than traditional excavation and replacement methods.
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